Lots more progress made on the coat today, mostly the hidden secrets of good tailoring (Saville Row no less...) so won't be visible in the finished product but make all the difference to how it looks.
So this picture shows yesterday's finish point -
First thing today was to machine on the pocket flap and press, then the hair canvas interlining was pinned into place and the lapel was pad stitched, see next picture.
The rest of the canvas was then tacked from the right side and then muslin flat tacked to the top of the back to strengthen it.
The front of the tails (or skirt) were then reinforced with hair canvas and the edges that will form the pleats and centre back with iron on stayflex, to make the edges nice and sharp.
Next was to stitch up the dart on the front, which pulls the front of the coat into a nice curve, capturing the top of the pocket and flap in, concealing all the raw edges - so obviously a nightmare to do! First one took three attempts to get right, second one was right first time! See before and after -
The dart also had to be stitched on the lining, easy in comparison. Finally I stitched the front seams of the sleeves, both outer fabric and lining and pressed them flat. A bit of stab stitching on my breeches and finished for the day.
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