Wednesday August 31

Made up the sleeves, including a piped trim around the wrist, so they are ready to attach and also prepared the collar in the same way.

Tuesday August 30

Seemed to spend a lot of time un-picking things today...
Cut out and put together the facing to neaten the bottom edges of the bodice, but once stitched on it wouldn't bag out properly because of the pleats, so had to be un-picked and then the edges pressed up and the whole thing stitched by hand.  Took a while...

Monday August 29

We work Bank Holidays too...
Started on the bodice today, pinned and stitched all the seams and pressed the pleats out, so it looks like this...

Then all the seams have to be neatened with zig zag stitch, this is very tedious (and doesn't stop the fabric fraying) so I have done about half and will continue tomorrow.

Finally pinned my pleated trim to the hem of my apron, before leaving a bit early (well, it is a Bank Holilday!)

Saturday August 27

Yes, I know its Saturday, but its getting to that stage in the course (less than a month to go...) when all hours must be worked!
Started on my epaulets at last....

So far, so good, just bullion and a button hole to add... then I can make the other one!

Friday August 26

Continued work on my bustle/train, hand stitching the facing all the way around and then pleating it up to fit the waistband.  Finished it off with long tapes to tie around my waist.  Also prepared another long strip of fabric to be pleated up to trim the bottom edge of the apron, avoiding the mistakes of the other day, so went much quicker!

Thursday August 25

Worked on the bustle/train part of my gown today.  Joined the two pieces together with a french seam, so no raw edges and then cut out and hemmed a facing from silk in a contrasting colour.  Cut out strips of silk to make a pleated ruffle, which proved to be very time consuming and caused a slight loss of temper!  So marvel at the pictures below so I know it was worth it...

(Sorry, this picture should be the other way around...)

Wednesday August 24

Spent today finishing off the foundation skirt and apron, putting on the waistband, doing the hem and trying to decide what trim to use and whether to trim the hem or bottom of the apron.

Also made some swing catchers for the back and to hold up the swags on the apron - dedicated to you Jen, if you're reading this!

Exhibition

Check out http://www.northerncollegeofcostume.co.uk/ for full details of our end of course exhibition on September 23 & 24

Tuesday August 23

Started today by flat tacking the fabric for the apron to a piece of cotton backing, took a while as its quite big...

Once that was done the sides and bottom had to be faced; the top was marked with pins ready for the pleats.  Once all the preparation was done, the apron was attached to the foundation skirt and now just needs finishing off around the bottom.

Monday August 22

Constructed the foundation skirt today.  Cut from cotton and with a deep hem of silk, all the seams are fell seams to neaten the edges and there is a centre back placket.  Once it was stitched up, I pleated it onto a petersham waistband, so it looks like this...

Friday August 19

Cutting out...
                  ...all day!

Wednesday August 17

Back from London, with lovely fabric for my bustle gown.  Had a great time shopping on Goldhawk Road in Shepherds Bush, about 15 shops to choose from and must have been in most of them 3 or 4 times before final choice made, which turned out to be quite different from what I had originally planned!
Picture below doesn't really do the colours justice but here is my fabric...

Yes that is a purple hat!  Got some antique gloves as well from a very friendly man at Alfie's in Marylebone, who often helps Colleen Atwood source costume items (she designs for most of Tim Burton's films amongst other things...)
Spent today working on my breeches, made 3 covered buttons and so far have hand stitched 3 button holes, 2 to go, so neaarly finished.
Day off tomorrow, so I'm off to Castle Howard, cutting out on Friday.

Friday August 12

Fittings today!
Here I am in my completed under pinnings...

And in the bustle gown, with lots of pins where it was taken in...

After the fitting made all the adjustments to the patterns and worked out how much fabric will be needed.
Off to London next week to buy everything we need.

Thursday August 11

I'm pleased and proud to announce that the button holes on my shirt are done!  And the ones on my combinations - hurrah!

Also finished my bustle gown toile ready for fitting tomorrow - its been a good day...

Wednesday August 10

Today we learnt how to drape a bodice on the stand, starting with a rectangle of fabric and pinning it down the centre front and forming darts to shape the bodice to the stand.  The back is done the same and then the two pinned together at the side and shoulder.

This basic idea is then adapted to fit in with the bodice design.  So the two darts in the back become seams, so there are three panels in the back, which also then go into pleats over the bustle.  One dart in the fron becomes two and the bottom edge is shaped.  Then all the pinned lines are marked with pencil and all the piece separated and made in to patterns.

Finally all the pattern pieces are cut out in calico and a toile made up.  Still some adjustments to be made, the pleats at the back are not sitting right, so that will be sorted tomorrow, plus working out the sleeves and collar.

Tuesday August 9

Yesterday and today spent creating the skirt for my bustle gown.  The under skirt is based on the petticoat pattern but with more fullness in the back to go over the bustle cage and petticoat.  Then the apron, which covers the front of the under skirt, have only created half of this for the toile, this is attached to the under skirt.  The over skirt - or bustle or drape - goes on last, basically a great big rectangle of fabric, pleated up until you get the effect you are after.  Mine is fairly simple, with a bum pad underneath to give that flat back.